Híyakoc’i!

That’s how you say “Hi, everyone!” in the words of the Southern Sierra Miwok, the tribe that helped give Yosemite its remarkably unpoetic name! Their name for the Yosemite valley was “Ahwahnee,” which meant “mouth,” because it looked like a bear’s mouth. When white settlers claimed the valley for America, they based their name for the park on another word, “Yohhe’meti,” which was the Miwok name for a renegade tribe who lived in the valley: “those who kill!”

With that, and last night’s perilous ice, in mind, I set out bright and early this morning to meet head-on whatever icy dangers might lurk in the wintery valley!

I was astounded at how warm it was at this hour, in the mountains! The lowest temperature was in the high 30s! In fact, when I went down to the Merced River, it was too warm for the rare frazil ice to form! That was a little disappointing, but I was determined to see some more winter-specific sights, especially the giant snow cones that form under Yosemite’s waterfalls. I wondered if they would be lime- or grape-flavored and set out to have a taste!

My hopes of an icy snack were dashed at Bridalveil Fall, one of the Park’s most iconic waterfalls. Here, though a delicious snow cone beckoned just above, there were all sorts of signs warning visitors about the fast current and the slippery rocks! Despite my great skill with bouldering, it was pretty icy up there, and recalling how unforgiving Yosemite ice can be, I decided to view it from afar. Nonetheless, the sight was well worth the short hike!

Next, I headed for Yosemite Falls, the highest waterfall in North America at 2,425 feet, but first, I had to check in at the visitor center to make sure the trail was open. It was a good thing too, because at the visitor center was my 400th Historical Landmark! Did you know that this valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias were the first natural areas in the United States to be placed under governmental protection? We can all thank President Lincoln for starting that movement in 1864 and John Muir, who pushed for Yosemite’s national park status in 1906. Some say this was America’s best idea. I couldn’t agree more!

With one victory under my (invisible) belt, I asked the ranger if it were safe to take the trail to upper Yosemite Falls at this time of year. The trail was open, but she warned me to be careful, because conditions can be very slippery in winter. I thought back to my successful ascent of Angel’s Landing in 2011 and decided to go for it, stopping first at Lower Yosemite Falls, which drew more crowds and did not have a snow cone, yet was still lovely. I had to keep a watchful eye on the time, though, as the ranger said this hike would take 6-7 hours. Since it was already 11:00, the sooner I started, the better!

This trail is truly historic, started in 1873 by a fellow named John Conway, who operated it as a toll trail for horses! When Yosemite became the first state park in the US, he strongly resisted the California government’s attempts to purchase his trail, but he finally conceded in 1885. It was a good thing too, because this turned out to be a spectacular trail, steep and surprisingly hot, but undeniably inspiring! The beauty of a steep trail is twofold: it keeps crowds to a minimum, and it instantly builds camaraderie among those who reach the upper heights! There were some fun people along this trail, so much so that I didn’t mind one bit that the trail bypassed the upper falls and its delicious snow cone by about 400 yards.

I hate to boast, but it only took me two hours to reach the top, despite the heat, the altitude, and the steepness of the trail. Because of those factors, I dove right into the fields of clean snow at the top as soon as I reached them. Crisp, Sierra snow is one of nature’s finest hiking treats, crusty on top, soft underneath, like a frozen cookie! As I enjoyed a particularly good snow cookie, a lightbulb went off, and I started packing snow together in a frenzy. I may have started this trail alone, but darn it, I was going to share the view with an old friend. After a few minutes, Señor Castorieti was reincarnated!

Señor Castorieti is a very metaphysical fellow. As a snowbeaver, he is endowed with the wisdom of all the world’s snows and can be summoned in many different forms. After almost a year of dormancy, he was just itching to stretch his legs! He tuned in to the Yosemite snows (a big jump from O Cebreiro) and suddenly exclaimed that so many trails began from this high point, leading off into the high and remote Sierras with their sharp crags and dwindling glaciers. He started off toward Eagle Mountain, but I had to rein him in. I wanted to see the top of Yosemite Falls first. Reluctantly, he agreed, but when we reached the top of the falls and took in the view, he admitted it was a good detour to take!

We frolicked for a few hours, though my cramping legs gave Señor Castorieti the advantage, and he still wanted to journey higher into the unmelting snows of the high Sierras. So, we parted ways while he advised me to at least go the extra mile to Yosemite Point for incredible views of Half Dome. I thanked him and wished him luck, but when I took my hat back from him, he fell over and splattered himself upon the ground! Poor Señor Castorieti! I’ll have to build him on a glacier next time. In any case, I took his advice and crossed the bridge atop Yosemite Falls, where the placid creek has no idea of the rush awaiting it over the edge, and trudged the extra mile over pure snow to one spectacular vista, just as the lighting started to get perfect.

Speaking of lighting, by then, it was nearly 3:00, and I had one more appointment to keep tonight: Firefall on the north side of the Merced River. Luckily, the snow made it much easier to get down, and I slid like a penguin down most of it. When I reached the bottom, aching, but relentless, I easily found the next viewing spot and hustled into the woods to line up a shot!

This side was not crowded at all, probably because this viewpoint is on the way out of the park and takes more time to reach it. Without crowds or clouds, I expected a spectacular display, but just as the sunset got within a few minutes of full Firefall, clouds rolled in somewhere over San Francisco, and the spectacle faded before the climax. It was a shame, but at least I saw it last night! Firefall truly is a gamble!

My first adventure in Yosemite has come to a close, but there is still so much to see here. There are lakes that don’t fill until summer and trails that are inaccessible when the snow covers them. Some day, I would like to climb Half Dome and even explore the glaciers of the high Sierras, maybe fulfilling Señor Castorieti’s quest. Even though mine continues without George, the beauty of Yosemite has energized me. Once my legs start functioning again, I’m ready for “Muir” adventures!

Time to make like snow and run off!